ASDS 2024: Inside the Latest Skin-Care Tools and Trends

Curious about what’s next in skin care and age-defying treatments at the dermatologist’s office? This year’s American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS) conference in Orlando showcased the latest advancements in skin, hair and body aesthetics. From regenerative aesthetics to breakthrough laser treatments, here’s what the top dermatologists were buzzing about at this year’s premier dermatology event.

On Friday at the conference, the exhibit hall floor buzzed with excitement as it was announced that Botox Cosmetic received FDA approval for use in the neck—an area in which it’s been used off-label for decades. Dr. Jean Carruthers, who pioneered Botox’s aesthetic applications, was there to celebrate the milestone as one of the first to champion the treatment. “We’ve seen the benefits of Botox for neck lines in practice for years,” says West Palm Beach, FL dermatologist Kenneth Beer, MD. “Now, we can offer complete rejuvenation that includes the neck.”

A focus on regenerative treatments showcased the body’s natural ability to restore and rejuvenate. Englewood Cliffs, NJ dermatologist Jeffrey Rapaport, MD, discussed a new approach to PRP, explaining how concentrated exosomes—the regenerative components in PRP—optimize results. “Studies are now showing the exosomes permeate all the way through, so throwing out the platelet-poor plasma is not something you want to do,” he shared. “The next step with PRP is to concentrate the exosomes and use them. There’s a company called Super Shot that concentrates exosomes using a density gradient for a double shot of exosomes.”

Washington, D.C. dermatologist Noëlle S. Sherber, MD, highlighted the benefits of SkinVive for skin rejuvenation, especially on the chest area. “It gives the skin a more revived, springy and crease-resistant appearance,” she noted, adding that “the boosters hydrate and smooth the skin, giving it a naturally refreshed look.”

Grosse Pointe, MI, dermatologist David Balle, MD says Sculptra’s collagen-building ability beyond the face make it perfect for rejuvenating the neck and décolletage. “Sculptra is perfect for restoring collagen in areas where traditional fillers can’t deliver the same natural-looking results,” he added.

Montclair, NJ dermatologist Jeanine Downie, MD discussed PRX Derm Perfexion, a topical collagen stimulator that combines TCA and kojic acid. What sets the treatment apart from traditional peels is the manual stimulation the provider has to give to massage the solution in. “It thickens skin and minimizes lines without peeling,” she explained, making it a good choice for patients who prefer noninvasive solutions.

Maple Grove, MN dermatologist Ronda Farah, MD, introduced the FoLixs TX3, a laser FDA-cleared for early-stage hair loss, noting, “The precise, noninvasive stimulation provided by lasers like TX3 is delivering promising results for patients with thinning hair.”

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Hair restoration technology continues to evolve, providing effective solutions for patients with thinning hair. New York dermatologist Robert Finney, MD, combines DHT blockers with regenerative treatments for a layered approach to hair loss. “Blocking DHT is essential for long-term stabilization, but it’s not always effective at regrowth,” he explained, noting his use of mesotherapy with dutasteride for targeted scalp treatments.

New York dermatologist Amy Spizuoco, MD, shared her excitement about a tattoo gun technique that micro-implants dutasteride directly into the scalp. “This targeted delivery stimulates follicles and achieves notable regrowth,” she said.

Laser technology advancements were a focal point, with experts sharing insights on their versatility for a variety of skin concerns. Philadelphia dermatologist Margo Weishar, MD, noted lasers’ preventative potential, saying, “Lasers aren’t just cosmetic anymore; they’re helping reduce pre-cancers and serving health as well as aesthetic needs.”

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Among new devices was the AVAVA MIRIA Laser, discussed by Chapel Hill, NC dermatologist Sue Ellen Cox, MD, for its AI-driven safety settings. “It’s showing improvement in photo damage, tissue tightening and volume enhancement,” she shared.

New York dermatologist Diane Madfes, MD also likes the MIRIA, noting its AI capabilities. “It’s a resurfacing laser, it’s a 1550″ and praised its applicability for darker skin types. The AI is designed to improve over time as it learns she says, noting that the AI function will “only get better” with use, making it exciting for treating a broader range of skin types.

Coming soon to the U.S. in January 2025 is Teoxane’s new skin-care line which brings its RHA technology directly to everyday routines, pairing seamlessly with the brand’s well-known RHA fillers. Founded by Madame Valérie Taupin, who previously contributed to the development of Juvéderm and later created RHA, Teoxane’s medical grade skin care has been available overseas for more than 10 years.

“The idea is to support both resilience and dynamic movement in the skin,” a brand representative explained, noting that Teoxane’s RHA technology is designed to work with facial expressions. “This new skin-care line aims to unify in-office treatments with at-home care for consistent results.”

For melanin-rich skin, Houston dermatologist Emily Guo, MD, shared, “I have patients come in about six weeks after they start taking tranexamic acid, and we can usually see whether they’ll be happy with the results or if we need to add another treatment.”

Glenn Dale, MD dermatologist Valerie D. Callender, MD notes the importance of pigment-safe lasers, explaining, “Using pigment-safe lasers is essential, especially for patients of color, who want effective results without the risk of hyperpigmentation.”

Dr. Guo reported a shift in how patients see filler due to patient concerns about migration and unnatural-looking results. “I definitely get questions from patients about filler migration,” she shared. Dr. Guo reassures patients by saying, “I always tell patients, I’d rather underfill you and come back than overfill you.”

Washington, D.C. dermatologist Tina Alster, MD, often treats patients with overfilled faces. “I see patients in two varieties: those who are cautious and haven’t done anything and those who have already been overdone,” she explained. “You can’t just add more filler on top of what’s already there,” she said, emphasizing the need for a balanced approach and going to a qualified injector the first time.

“Stacking” multiple treatments was a common theme, especially for collagen-building and skin tightening. Germantown, TN dermatologist Purvisha Patel, MD, combines Sculptra with radio-frequency for elasticity and collagen. “We’re now stacking tools—muscle stimulation and RF—for noninvasive outcomes that rival surgery,” she said, ideal for weight loss patients with skin laxity.

Hallandale Beach, FL dermatologists Drs. Bertha Baum and Eduardo Weiss, MD say they’re doing a lot of treatment stacking in one session. “We’re using different lasers at the same time—one for redness and another for brown spots—usually on the same day,” says Dr. Weiss. “This approach decreases the recovery period, allowing patients to heal just once rather than multiple times.”

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Dr. Baum says stacking treatments for skin hydration and elasticity has been particularly effective, especially when combined with newer, off-label injectables like polynucleotides and skin boosters, which address deeper hydration needs. “making a notable impact on “This is great for patients dealing with dryness, including those experiencing skin changes due to menopause.”

The influence of social media on patient expectations was a major topic, particularly regarding the ethics of online medical advice. West Islip, NY dermatologist Kavita Mariwala, MD, a speaker at the Allergan “Moving the Needle” panel, noted, “There’s a massive demand for aesthetic procedures, but consumers are often swayed by unverified advice. It’s crucial to meet patients where they are to ensure they receive accurate information.”

Dallas, TX dermatologist Diane Davis, MD, emphasized the importance of addressing patient expectations by discussing the appeal of Instagram posts with her patients. “When patients bring in Instagram posts, I ask what resonates with them about the treatment. It helps us explore achievable, safe outcomes together,” which has been instrumental in building trust and aligning expectations.

New York psychiatrist and dermatologist Evan Reider, MD, pointed to the psychological impact of social media, stating, “Social media has really changed the way people perceive themselves, often amplifying insecurities that drive them to seek unnecessary treatments. My role is to help patients understand their motivations and choose the most beneficial path for their well-being.”

At the meeting, NewBeauty took center stage with two dynamic panels, exploring the latest in hair loss solutions and regenerative aesthetics. In our Hair Loss Panel, hair-loss experts New York dermatologist Doris Day, MD, Houston, TX dermatologist Megan Couvillion, MD and Tampa, FL dermatologist McKenna Abercrombie, MD shared leading-edge advancements in hair regrowth treatments, covering everything from FDA-approved therapies to the innovations reshaping the future of hair restoration. For those intrigued by regenerative aesthetics, our panel with Delray Beach, FL dermatologist Dr. Janet Allenby, New York dermatologist Rishi Chopra, MD and the pioneering Dr. Jean Carruthers offered a rare glimpse into how advancements in regenerative medicine are transforming aesthetic care. Dr. Carruthers, co-innovator of Botox, provided unparalleled insights into the next wave of skin rejuvenation, tissue repair, and anti-aging treatments, making this a must-know session for anyone following the future of beauty.

NewBeauty Top Doctors Omaha, NE dermatologists Dr. Joel Schlessinger and Dr. Daniel Schlessinger, earned the coveted title of The Iron Surgeons at the conference this year. Competing against sibling dermatologists, the father-son duo presented a forward-thinking solution to a complex patient case along with a Breaking Bad inspired short film. This recognition is particularly notable, as Dr. Daniel Schlessinger is the youngest dermatologist to receive this award, joining a select group of fewer than 20 honorees since its establishment in 2007.

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