Laser Hair Removal: Benefits, Risks, Editor Review | Marie Claire

So long, shaving and waxing.

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I’m team do-what-you-want when it comes to body hair. Personally, I strive to be hairless. But achieving a smooth finish on every square inch of my skin has been a years-long struggle. I tried shaving, waxing, and even using the best epilators. It wasn’t until I embarked on my laser hair removal journey that I achieved my naked mole rat aspirations.

It took me a little over a year, 16 sessions, and $2,600 out of my pocket, but I can confidently say it was worth every penny and pinch of pain to never have to pick up a razor again. My showers are quicker, ingrown hairs are nonexistent, and my skin is never nicked, scarred, or scraped.

There are at-home laser hair removal devices if that’s more your speed (we’ve thoroughly tested the best of the best), but I’m personally partial to professional, in-office treatments. Whether it’s a dermatologist's office or medspa—I had my laser hair removal done at Skinney Medspa in NYC—an experienced technician and heavy-duty machine zap the melanin of the hair follicle and to prevent continued growth. It's usually a faster process (although it still takes plenty of time), and with a pro at the helm, the risks are fairly minor.

Keep reading to learn everything you need to know about laser hair removal—from how much it hurts to determining whether or not you’re a candidate. I’m sharing my personal experience and insights from Shiela Kassir, MD, co-founder of Kassir Plastic Surgery, and Adriana Martino, licensed aesthetician and co-founder of Skinney Medspa.

When it comes to hair removal methods, laser is one of the longest-lasting, most permanent options. It essentially uses a powerful hand-held device with concentrated light energy to zap individual hair follicles, explains Dr. Kassir. “This light gets absorbed by the hair follicles and damages them, preventing future hair growth. Over time, you’ll notice smoother, hair-free skin,” she adds. Laser hair removal can also be done nearly anywhere on the body—from pits and nether region to face and legs.

The catch: there are different types of lasers on the market, some better suited to your particular skin type and tone than others. The Alexandrite, YAG, and Diode laser are popular options, but it’s always worthwhile to inquire which device will be responsible for your hair removal. “The 1064 YAG is suitable for most all skin types—including darker skin tones, whereas an Alexandrite is for lighter skin types, and a Broadband laser is good for most all skin types except very dark skin,” adds Martino. While the YAG has more advanced technology and can effectively treat darker skin tones, the other lasers struggle to identify the difference between melanin in the hair and melanin in the skin, meaning those with dark skin and dark hair run a higher risk of burning or skin damage.

Laser hair removal offers a long-term solution to hair removal that you won’t find with other options like shaving or waxing. “After six to eight sessions, you can permanently reduce at least 80 percent of unwanted hair,” explains Martino. It’s also great for reducing ingrown hairs that can come with other hair removal methods, adds Dr. Kassir.

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Because laser hair removal slows and often stops hair growth over time, stubble and irritation are also substantially reduced. Even when hair does come back (it’s rare to reach 100 percent removal), it’s finer, thinner, and lighter.

Generally speaking, laser hair removal is very safe. But, as with any light energy treatment, there are risks involved. “Common side effects include temporary redness, swelling, or mild irritation in the treated area,” says Dr. Kassir. “In rare cases, people may experience burns, scarring, or changes in skin color, especially if the wrong laser is used for their skin tone.” The latter is a higher risk for those with dark skin tones.

With that in mind, it’s particularly important to have laser hair removal done by a certified professional with experience working with all hair types and skin tones. If your doctor or medspa doesn’t have the right laser for you, look elsewhere.

“Laser hair removal works best for people with light skin and dark hair because the laser targets the pigment in the hair,” explains Dr. Kassir. Unfortunately, the treatment will not be effective for those with light blonde, gray, white, or red hair, as there’s not enough pigment for the laser to target.

Those with dark skin tones do run a higher risk of scarring and hyperpigmentation with laser hair removal, but thanks to new technology—like the Nd:YAG laser—it is considered safe.

I’ve gotten ready for my laser hair removal treatments a grand total of 16 times, so you could say I’m an expert. First, you want to ensure you’re not using any antibiotics, steroids, or body retinols during the two weeks leading up to your appointment. They can not only make your skin more sensitive to the light, but also cause unwanted extra pain. In the same vein, “avoid waxing, plucking, or bleaching the area, since these methods remove hair from the root and make the laser less effective,” explains Dr. Kassir.

A day or two before your appointment, you’ll also want to give any areas being treated a fresh shave, says Martino. “Then, we can actually treat the hair follicles under your skin.” If you miss a spot—don’t worry; your technician will have a razor on hand for any touch-ups.

Allow me to walk you through a laser hair removal appointment. I check in at the front desk and am escorted into a private room. Because I get my underarm and Brazilian area treated, I change into a robe, put on a disposable bra, and pop on some funky sunglasses designed to protect my eyes from the light energy device. Once I’m ready to go, my technician walks in and powers up the laser.

She’ll apply a conductive gel to the area before stamping the laser on squares of my skin. Typically, she’ll do two passes, which occasionally require me to get into some interesting, legs-in-the-air positions (you’ll know what I’m talking about if you get a bikini or Brazilian laser). “Sessions can last anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour, depending on the size of the area being treated,” says Dr. Kassir.

While everyone has a different pain tolerance, laser hair removal shouldn’t hurt too badly. The sensation is similar to a rubber band snap mixed with mild heat. I don’t need numbing cream, but most offices will offer it as an option if you find the treatment too spicy. “Dark, thick hair under the arms and the bikini area can be particularly sensitive, especially if you suffer from ingrown hairs,” says Martino. “Still, it’s much less painful than waxing and should get easier and easier with every session.”

Even better news: laser hair removal machines are equipped with customizable heat and energy settings. Depending on your pain threshold, your technician can dial down or dial up the power—and, therefore, the pain.

I wouldn’t recommend running to the gym or jumping in a scorching hot shower directly after your laser hair removal appointment. Otherwise, you should be able to resume normal daily activities or head back to the office. The big takeaway: “It’s important to avoid direct sun exposure for a couple of weeks and make sure you use sunscreen on the treated areas,” explains Dr. Kassir. If you do tan immediately following your laser hair removal, you risk hyperpigmentation.

For those experiencing irritation or sensitization, Martino suggests applying a calming cream with aloe vera or a thin layer of hydrocortisone.

The cost can vary depending on the area you’re treating, how many sessions you need, and where you live — bigger cities tend to have higher prices. “Generally, you’re looking at anywhere from $150 to $500 per session. Larger areas like the legs or back will cost more, while smaller areas like the upper lip tend to be on the lower end of the scale,” says Dr. Kassir.

Most doctor’s offices and medspas will offer discount deals and bundles if you buy a pack of sessions or schedule multiple areas at once. For example, I spent roughly $1300 on an under-arm and Brazilian eight-session bundle, which netted out to roughly $160 per treatment.

If you’re a prime candidate (light skin, dark hair), you should see outstanding results within six to eight sessions, which are spaced four to six weeks apart. If you’re a less-than-ideal candidate (light skin, light hair, or dark skin, dark hair), you’ll likely need more sessions to achieve the same results.

While I noticed my hair was softer, finer, and less prevalent after four sessions, I wasn’t satisfied until I completed 16 sessions. Now, I can go months without shaving. I'll occasionally grab my razor for a quick touchup before a big event, but the need is very sparing.

Yes—you can do laser hair removal at home. But there’s a caveat: they aren’t as powerful as their professional counterparts and, therefore, won’t be as effective. “While they can work overtime, they tend to be slower and less effective, especially for larger areas or certain skin and hair types,” says Dr. Kassir. For example, no at-home laser hair removal device is suitable or safe for darker skin tones — at least not yet.

Marie Claire is an expert in hair removal, having covered topics ranging from the best razors and electric razors, to how to shave the bikini line and at-home wax kits. Samantha Holender specifically is a Beauty Editor with nearly a decade of experience in the space. She has personally experienced laser hair removal and tested at-home devices, meaning she is incredibly knowledgeable on the topic. We also spoke with a board-certified plastic surgeon and laser hair removal expert for this particular story.

Dr. Sheila Malek Kassir is a board certified plastic surgeon from Germany and an internationally recognized beauty expert on novel and trusted cosmetic procedures including the latest beauty trends and innovations from Europe. She first saw the gap between scientific advances in beauty and common beauty trends during her career as a German film and TV actress. With her personal experience in the industry she was uniquely positioned to provide novel cosmetic advances to her fellow co-stars and thespians. Dr. Malek Kassir then decided this information and the services of the latest beauty techniques should be more accessible and travelled the world searching for differences in beauty techniques and standards and latest plastic surgery techniques to bring to everyone. Other spots of her Plastic Surgery training around the world were Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery at Yale New Haven, Komfo Anokye teaching hospital in Kumasi Ghana, Queen Elisabeth Hospital in Bridgetown Barbados, multiple hospitals in Germany, Switzerland and Iran, and eventually she went back to the USA where she was trained by Dr. Ramtin Kassir. Her special interests are plastic and cosmetic surgery of the face and body. She strongly believes in combining all sources of Plastic Surgery and Nonsurgical treatments to deliver naturally beautiful results. She respects each person's unique anatomy and wants to enhance each individual's own beauty.

Adriana Martino, Co-founder of SKINNEY Medspa and licensed Esthetician, began herpassion for anti-aging skincare in Orlando Florida. She began hercareers working under doctors, gaining her certifications in several non- ablative, non-invasive lasers in 2005. Adriana Martino treated hundreds of clients while working at some of the best spas NYC offered. She worked extensively with several laser technologies such as NG Yag, Diodes, Broadband light and IPL’s, and Radio Frequency platforms.

Adriana has an extensive knowledge of all devices pertaining to anti-aging skincare as well as cellulite reduction. To further her expertise, she enrolled in the Florida College of Natural Health in Miami, FL where she took laser specific courses for the certification in laser hair removal and laser esthetics in 2007.

Samantha Holender is the Beauty Editor at Marie Claire, where she reports on the best new launches, dives into the science behind skincare, and shares the breakdown on the latest and greatest trends in the beauty space. She's studied up on every ingredient you'll find on INCI list and is constantly in search of the world's glowiest makeup products. She's constantly tracking the biggest nail and hair trends to pop up in the beauty space, going backstage during fashion weeks, tracking celebrity looks, and constantly talking to celebrity hair stylists, nail artists, and makeup artists. Prior to joining the team, she worked as Us Weekly’s Beauty and Style Editor, where she stayed on the pulse of pop culture and broke down celebrity beauty routines, hair transformations, and red carpet looks. Her words have also appeared on Popsugar, Makeup.com, Skincare.com, Delish.com, and Philadelphia Wedding. Samantha also serves as a board member for the American Society of Magazine Editors (ASME). She first joined the organization in 2018, when she worked as an editorial intern at Food Network Magazine and Pioneer Woman Magazine. Samantha has a degree in Journalism and Mass Communications from The George Washington University’s School of Media and Public Affairs. While at GWU, she was a founding member of the school’s HerCampus chapter and served as its President for four years. When she’s not deep in the beauty closet or swatching eyeshadows, you can find her obsessing over Real Housewives and all things Bravo. Keep up with her on Instagram @samholender.

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